Taiwan Travelogue: Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall

White sparkles reflect from the marbled walls of the octagon-shaped building, which stands with a majestic and commanding presence on an elevated platform, and appears as though the building is wearing a blue-glazed tile roof with the red accent as its hat. It is unmistakably the colors of the flag of the Republic of China, adorning the hallowed stature of this building which was erected since the year 1976 in memory of an important figure in the history of Taiwan.

One should not be unfamiliar with the historical figure of Generalissimo Chiang Kai Shek (蒋介石), who had cast an eminent shadow in shaping the country (Taiwan) to her identity in the modern era of today. The first President of the Republic of China and a prominent or influential member of the Kuomintang (KMT), Chiang has indeed left many imprints in the history of both China and Taiwan till this very day. (Details and history of the late Chiang Kai Shek can be found here)

Following Chiang Kai Shek's death in year 1975, orders and works on this establishment began the year after as an effort to mourn the departure of their leader and to seal the years of his service and contributions in memory for the pondering of all future generations. A Funeral Committee, it seemed, was set up then to start work on building a memorial for the late president, and the same designer for the Grand Hotel, Yang Cho-Cheng (or CC Yang) was called upon to conceptualize the design for this memorial. The groundbreaking ceremony took place that very same year in the month of October, on the date of the 31st as a tribute to the 90th birthday of Chiang, and it was only five years later; in the year of 1980, that the memorial hall was finally opened to the public, on the 5th of April to commemorate the 5th anniversary of the president's death.

Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall, stands today as one of the most visited sites in Taipei; the capital of Taiwan, where many tourists flock to the vast grounds to pay tribute to the late President Chiang Kai Shek. The locals make up the crowds here too, gathering for group activities or recreational purposes as the place is also surrounded by a large square area of a park flanked by two other buildings; the National Concert Hall and the National Theater which skirts the surrounding of the grounds.



While it is erected in the memory of the late president and nationalist of the country, the design and architecture of the place is still very much influenced by the basic rules of the Chinese beliefs, or even the art of feng shui, just like most of the Chinese-inspired designs are everywhere.
It is interesting to take note of the many design features incorporated into the establishment, telling and spinning their own reasons for the inclusion in the architecture.

Interesting features of the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall:
1. The building is designed in an octagonal shape; which insinuates the symbol of the number '8'. If you can remember or are familiar with the Chinese beliefs, the number is regarded with high preference due to its auspicious homonym loosely sounding like good fortune and prosperity. It is commonly favored among the Chinese communities and it is general knowledge that this number is so popular that you can see it appearing or even assimilated into part of the lifestyle of the society. In fact, anything that incorporates the number is said to bring good luck to the owner.

2. There are exactly 89 steps leading to the memorial hall; on both sides, making it two sets of 89 flight of steps to the hall. Most things go in pairs, but the number of steps leading to the hall is said to symbolize the age of the late president at the time of his passing.


3. The emblem of the Kuomintang (KMT), or also known as the Chinese Nationalist Party graced the vaulted ceiling in the hallowed halls of the building.



4. The main entrance is composed of two large doors, like most grand opening into a majestic hall. The doors are measured to be approximately 16 meters high each and weighing about 75 tons respectively.

5. The hallowed halls emit a solemn presence with the cool marbled walls and high ceilings, with the large bronze statue erected in the image of the late President Chiang Kai Shek in a relaxed sitting position and dressed in a Chinese traditional costume, commanding the attention from all who enters the hall. The statue is flanked by two flag poles displaying the national flag of Taiwan, and guarded by two members deployed from the armed forces in the country, who stands still throughout their shifts during the opening hours of the memorial hall.
(The other highlight of the monument is the changing of the guards on shift, which takes place every hour and will be further elaborated in the later part of the post).



6. Behind the bronze statue is the inscription of three words; Ethics, Democracy and Science.
Inscriptions on the side further says "The purpose of life is to improve the general life of humanity" and "The meaning of life is to create and sustain subsequent lives in the universe". (Quoted from here and here)

7. The statue was positioned to be facing; in a rather significant and symbolic manner towards the Presidential Office Building which was also coincidentally in the geographic direction of the actual location of mainland China. Coincidence? I'd think not, as there is just too much association with the background of Chiang with both, and besides, you don't haul an entire committee or design team who just creates a structure as important as a memorial hall purely based on architectural instincts. Therefore, it is a symbolic effort on that part, not to mention the thought that goes through the minds of these people as they brainstorm and crunch the nerves in their brain to come up with a monument which does more than just hold the memories of the late president alone.

Interesting things To Do while you are here
If you are thinking that this is just a national monument where you come, take a look, snap a photo, linger for a while and then proceed to your next destination, well, that is not quite the case as imagined.
Of course, while the above does apply (to a certain extent), there are also interesting things to look out for while you are here, besides checking out the interesting features of the building as listed above, there are also events or activities which are of highlights on the grounds of this memorial hall.
For instance, there is a library and museum at the ground/lower level of the memorial hall which showcases the life of the late Chiang Kai Shek through the various exhibits on display and also the documentation of the history of Taiwan and its modern development, preceded by the era of the Republic of China.

The most interesting highlight and that one should not miss (I highly recommend, and I mean it), is the Changing of the Guards ceremony inside the Memorial Hall.
As mentioned above, the statue is guarded, during the opening hours of the memorial hall by two military members who would be standing, stone cold and rooted to their positions while on duty.
Yes, just like the British guards or most palace guards around the world, these men take their duties seriously and you will not even see or hear a sound nor a flinch from these men as they stand honorably to their guarding position.
Sometimes, I even wonder if they are still breathing or even blinking - they are that good.
(I do NOT, and I repeat, encourage anyone to try to test the guards while they are on duty; though it may also be rather impossible to do as they are also protected beyond the reach of nosy visitors. Even if they are not, please, out of pure respect for the dignity of others, do these men a favor and just observe their honorable duties from afar. They do not deserve to be ridiculed, for they are highly trained and skilled in their professions and deserve the highest level of respect).

Back to the ceremony, the guards on duty fall out and are replaced by the next batch of armed men every hour, and this is the ceremony which is anticipated and witnessed by many.
It is one of the highlights of the memorial hall and I must say, it was a very impressive ceremony, having witnessed it with my own eyes.

These are impressive young men who made up part of the dignified military population of the country, who have taken their oaths to serve the people and for the greater purpose of defending their country when in need and for that alone, they deserve the credit for their dedication and spirits.
The entire ceremony takes about 15-20 minutes, and silence is observed but trust me, you won't even squeak except with that occasional "Wow"you are silently uttering in your mind as you watch the whole changing in progress.
It takes place every hour, so there is not really a chance you will miss it on purpose unless you are truly not interested.
I would highly recommend to check this out, as the ceremony is simple yet elaborate and it is something which would be truly insightful on your visit to the memorial hall.

The memorial hall stands on a vast area of grounds, at the east end of the Memorial Hall Square which is basically a park; also known as the Liberty Park (自由廣場). However, for politically inclined reasons, the locals would still prefer the place; including the entire area of the grounds and park to be known as Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall Park (中正紀念公園)


While the Memorial hall is the centre of attention here, there is no way one could miss the sights of two brightly colored buildings; adorned with the traditional bright red and orange and the upwardly arched roofs in that typical Chinese architectural design which are the National Theater(國家戲劇院) and the National Concert Hall(國家音樂廳).





Be prepared to spend at least an hour or two (minimum), on the grounds, as the area is large and requires a lot of walking (yes, just walking on your feet). Also factor in the walking time for exploring and include the Changing of the Guards ceremony; and if you have more time at hand, check out the library and museum at the lower grounds of the memorial hall too.
It would be sufficient to cover the grounds in two hours or so, based on my personal experience.

Admission is FREE, and I would recommend the morning to check out the place before you head to other locations as it could get hotter in the afternoons to walk on large grounds like these. If you are there during winter, you could even risk showers of rain in the afternoons and therefore, I would say mornings are your best bet to fully enjoy your visit to this place.
It should be included in all itineraries of Taipei; unless you have been here before, or you are simply not interested in monuments (which would be really rare for most travelers who just cover almost every notable place when in a foreign country, right? ;-) )

Getting there
With the MRT in Taipei, it is relatively easy to get here.
Take either the Red or Green Line to the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall Station; or also known as the C.K.S Memorial Hall.


The unmistakable hints of blue and white will lead you to your exit to the Memorial hall as you follow the explanatory directions in the station.

Go through a park and you will soon be greeted by the familiar scenes as pictured in the earlier parts of this post.

Remembering Pearl Harbor

 I had meant to write this post earlier; in conjunction with the actual date in history; which was just a few days ago.

"Yesterday, December 7th 1941, was a day that will live in infamy..." were the words once uttered by the then US President, Franklin D Roosevelt following the shocking awakening from the sudden attack on the United States' naval base in Hawaii by swooping fighter jet planes from the heights of the skies where lights were just starting to seep in, to call it a brand new day. That day was one which altered the course of the history of the United States as the laughter and peace resonating from naval quarters the night before were loudly and unexpectedly interrupted and in its place, cries of agony and desperation as chaos broke out with the deafening and fiery explosions everywhere; stripping the once glorious base into shards of destruction.
There was no place to hide; as the fighter jets swooshed in and low, dropping bombs and missiles furiously; crashing into the unsuspecting camps and claiming young promising lives of the soldiers, ripping them of their vows to defend their beloved country. There was no mercy, as was in war; and there was no hope to even utter let alone plea for their own lives. The drastic move by the Japanese left the naval base of Pearl Harbor in shatters and unrecognizable as they come aggressively in squadrons of fighter jet planes; one by one; one after another and stopping at nothing until all is gone. The aircraft smartly lined, and the battleships proudly bobbing in the sea - signs of the might of the United States defense were destructed beyond recognition.

The devastating incident was the infamous Pearl Harbor bombing by the Japanese in 1941; which was also the igniting event which sparked off the fury of the United States in stepping up her declaration of war to strike back at the bold Asian country which challenged the authority and pride of a large country known to be the leader of the world.
Pearl Harbor remains a remnant of that painful memory and serves as a reminder to the Americans and the world, of vigilance and patriotism, at a hefty cost.

It matter not if one is an American of birth, as this event is not one which pertains the nationality or patriotism but rather, the cruelty to humanity and compassion as a whole. It was so heart-breaking to be standing on the grounds where once many have lost their lives. Though the place had since been cleared and undergone the process of beautification to restore the glory of its name and purpose in the history of the United States of America, it is still one which brings one to solemnity as one stand on its grounds. It is as if one could still feel the tremors from the bombings of yesteryear, and also the anxiety seems to be creeping in at the thought of the possibility of droppings from the clear skies.
Those were my exact sentiments as I was on the grounds of this historic place - waves of sadness and pain rushed to fill my veins and mind as I walked through the place; imagining the chaotic scenes which once took place on the grounds.



 I am no psychic, but I am pretty sure most of the visitors find themselves being overwhelmed by that rush of emotion as they look at the memorials erected to remember the fallen soldiers who have fought bravely to defend the country's honor despite their fears and anxieties of not being able to return to their loved ones. They have lost their lives, and they have lost hopes of being reunited with their families, in the most tragic and excruciatingly painful way imaginable.
It would be heartless not to be able to have this sense of emotion as one is reminded of the tragedy on location.

 

Although I was on my honeymoon at the point when I was visiting, I was honored to be able to take a walk down the historic grounds and pay my respects to the courageous soldiers who lost their lives in the Pearl Harbor tragedy.

The once important naval base of defense for the United States of America is now a memorial museum, inviting visitors to take in that bit of America's past and take during the World War II period. Sequence of events are displayed on marble stones; engraved with the etchings of yesteryear as images of the tragedy flash before visitors' eyes.
Models of the former battleships were also residents; with some being converted into museums

A walk down memory lane as one takes each step on the grounds of Pearl Harbor; taking in the memorial stones, the models of the missiles, aircraft, battleships and the engraving of the events on the stones.
While taking in the nostalgic journey, the memorial museums should not be missed  as they have three huge halls for the details on the Pearl Harbor bombings and also the aftermath and the effects on the residents of Oahu. Take in the stories and the painful revelations of the Japanese residents of Oahu at that time and how they were victimized for their fellow countrymen's atrocious attacks on the peaceful neighborhood and provoking the fury of the nation.




Two main highlights of Pearl Harbor has to be in the screening of a short film detailing the attack on Pearl Harbor in the Pearl Harbor Memorial Theatre, and also the onboard tour of the ill-fated USS Arizona.




While emotions were already heavily forming inside my heart during my tour on foot around the premises, the short film (approximately 25 minutes, if I remembered correctly) invoked those emotions once again and tugged strongly at my heartstrings and my eyes. I could not hold back my tears as I watched in horror and despair at the blazing tragedy unfolding before my very eyes.
I felt like I was momentarily transported back to the day in 1941, and anguish and overwhelming sadness just came over me that it was almost inexplicable; to describe the effects the short film had on me. As the lights came on, I realized I was not the only one as women around me were also seen leaving the theater teary-eyed.
It was a heart wrecking period to endure the shattering of lives taking form in digital pictures before our eyes, and I must say that it left an everlasting and profound impression in my mind.
It is human compassion to feel for the victims, and I could totally empathize the rage and fury of the citizens following after as they hear of the news that Pearl Harbor had fallen.

The other interesting tour would be the onboard tour of the USS Arizona, the battleship which was destroyed beyond hopes of salvation during the attacks. Parts of the ships were maintained and the remains of the ships are left in its sunken state on the ocean floor; serving as a memorial for the 1,177 crew who sank and perished along with the battleship.

Located across the sea, visitors are to take a short boat trip to be able to visit the memorial and tours are dependent on the weather condition. During winter, boat trips are halted due to the winds and unpredictable conditions which prevail for the safety of the visitors.

I have been to many memorials, and each of them has touched me in their tales of their very own past but Pearl Harbor sticks as one which left the most profound impression on me. Perhaps it was due to its widely acclaimed reputation and also the lasting effects of her historical and tragic past. It was after all, one of the prime events which lit that spark to ignite the fury of the United States of America as they declared war and vowed to bring their attackers to justice. It sparked off many more heart wrenching battles over years in many different regions of the world.
Lives were lost, cries of help and agony filled the air as battle after battle was fought around the world in the events of the World War II. Many have lost their loved ones; many have suffered the pain and drastic effects of war then which lasted until this very day.
The pain of the memories of war is not comprehensible to many; though many can say (including myself) that we know the effects of war on people and the nation.
As I take the tour around a place which holds so many painstaking and bloodshed memories, I could feel the longing of these forlorn soldiers yearning in anticipation for the day they were to return to be reunited with their loved ones and to the comforts of their homes. Yet, without warning, they were robbed of their lives abruptly in the course of a night.

I could not simply bring myself to think that such a destructive event could take place on a normal morning; or as it was said, slightly after the hours of dusk.
What could one be doing or even thinking at the final hours of their unexpected and untimely deaths?
Perhaps many things could have run through their minds, but definitely not their deaths, or their desperate fights to salvage their lives and their fellow mates nor watching people and things around them go up in flames.
Not a sight to cross anyone's mind upon opening our eyes first thing in the morning, yet, this is the very reality which hit the many people stationed at Pearl Harbor on that fateful morning in 1941.




It is true that this will be a day, forever etched in many's memories; not just in the families who lost their loved ones but also those who have heard and learnt of this historical event.
Truly, a day in infamy as it goes into part of the world's history, and stands to be a priceless lesson to be learnt and to be reminded of what once was such a world-breaking tragedy.

Letters to the Pearl Harbor survivors, who have lived to share their tragic tales and eyewitness accounts of such atrocity during the attacks.


To all the brave soldiers who have perished, you will be always be remembered by the world.
Pearl Harbor and the date December 7th will no longer be the same....

Valley of the Temples Memorial Park

Located at the foot of the Ko'olau mountains and on the windward side of the O'ahu island, is a peaceful site where the Valley of the Temples Memorial Park stand.
At the name of memorial park, one may be inclined to think of tombs and resting places for the dead and the sight of the lush greenery surrounding the area, one may not be wrong, at all.



The memorial park on the windward side of O'ahu; also the eastern side, is the resting place for many local Hawaiians who are believers of Buddhism, Christianity (Catholic and Protestant faith) and also of Shinto faith upon their departure from the living.








The place is indeed a tranquil place; with its surroundings of the greenery and the amazing views of the mountains as its backdrop.
 


However, the question remains, why would one want to visit a memorial park on their honeymoon?
To be honest, this is not really the main destination but a place we had to pass through to get to the destination; which is the famous Byodo-In temple; a replica of a Buddhist temple in Japan which is located towards the end of the park; set against the mountains.

The Byodo-In temple; to be featured in the next post...

The Mausoleum of General Yue Fei

General Yue Fei (岳飞) was a brave and patriotic warrior who had been the chief general of the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279). The General had led the battle against the Jin Dynasty; in which he emerged victorious. However, his victory was short-lived as he was wrongly accused of a treason charge on which he never commit and was sentenced to death.
His death was believed to be an act of betrayal and also of unjust reasons by the authorities, which was rectified 21 years when the Emperor Song Xiaozong was installed as the ruler of the country.


Returning General Yue Fei his reputation and his innocence reinstated, the Emperor ordered for proper burial and handling of the late general's remains which was laid to rest in this mausoleum erected in his honor.

The Mausoleum, besides being home to the brave General's tomb, is also the site of Yue Fei's Temple and the tomb of the General's son, Yue Yun.


In front of the tomb of the General were four bronze statues which were in kneeling forms, and with their hands bound behind their backs. These statues represent Qinhui, his wife Mrs Wang, Zhang Jun and Mo QiXie, who were the four people who betrayed and directly caused the death of the brave General.
The statues of them were erected there to condemn the wrong acts of these traitors and to remind the future generation not to follow in their footsteps.
There are also statues of dog, sheep and tiger before these statues, and I cannot remember what they represent.

Our tour guide had warned us against taking photos of the tomb and statues, well, for superstitious reasons, but I do wish I had gone against the instructions as I have found many photos of the mausoleum on the Internet.
Therefore, I do not have many photos of the mausoleum, except the gardens and paths surrounding the place.

Anyway, this is a place to commemorate the courage and noble deeds of a national hero and is a place of solemnity and contemplation to pay respect to the honorable General Yue Fei.


He is indeed, an honor to the nation, who, though met with a sad end, but will be remembered by the generations to come.


Extra links:
Absolute China Tours
Wikipedia
Travel China Guide
Warrior Tours

Perth 2010 DAY 2: Kings Park Part 3 - State War Memorial

One of the main landmarks in Kings Park which is also easily spotted is the State War Memorial



The memorial was erected in memory of all the Australian servicemen and women who had perished in honour of the country in various wars and battles; including the WWI, WWII, Korean War, Vietnam War, Boer, etc.

There are four sections which made up the State War Memorial:
1. Cenotaph


This housed the list of names of all the brave young men and women from Western Australia who had partaken and died in the wars mentioned above.



2. The Court of Contemplation



3. The Flame of Remembrance


4. Pool of Reflection


Both the Flame of Remembrance and the Pool Reflection were officially launched and inaugurated by the Royal Majesty Queen Elizabeth II


This is a solemn place for us to remember those who lost their lives and to pay our last respects and prayers for their courage.




The place is also surrounded by the lush greenery overlooking the magnificent view of the city and the Swan River, as it is located on the Mount Eliza grounds.










To be continued...